Q: How should I pack my items to ship to you?
A: Items should be well packed, preferably each item in its own protection. For pens, each one could be in a piece of PVC pipe or cardboard tube, then all of the items wrapped in bubble wrap inside a sturdy box. Mark the box as fragile. I will not be responsible for items poorly packed, you should insure your package.
Q: How long will it take to fix my item(s)?
A: That depends on what your item(s) need and how many there are. Remember this is my hobby, I have a full time job as well. If I need to order parts I will contact you and let you know how much the part(s) is and approximately how long it will take to get the part. Standard turn around under normal load is approximately one week for small orders.
Q: Do you offer a warranty?
A: No, I work on vintage items and there is no telling what may or may not happen to them. I do however guarantee my service or your money back (not including shipping).
Q: Your prices are really cheap, how can you do this work for that little money?
A: Simple, I am not a professional, I do this to learn my hobby. I am only charging basically what it costs me to perform the service. I would rather not charge at all and do everything through trades so I can learn more. After all, that what this is all about for me.
Q: Can I use any ink in my fountain pen?
A: Any ink that is specifically made for fountain pens, yes. I will however say that some inks perform better in some pens, your mileage may vary.
Q: Will my watch be waterproof when you are done?
A: No. Vintage watches are almost never returned to full waterproof status because of wear to the case, bezel, stem, etc. Some professionals can do this (and you will pay for it dearly). Even if I did, I do not have a pressure tester to make sure. If the watch was originally designated as waterproof it should be able to survive the occasional rainstorm or splash from washing your hands. Going swimming in a vintage watch is not a smart thing to do.
Q: I understand you are doing all this as a hobby, but once you gain more experience are you going to do any of it professionally?
A: No. I love my day job, and own part of the company, so I have no desire to do any of this for a living. I am certain I will expand my service offerings as I get more comfortable doing more advanced work, and as I acquire more tools. No one ever has to worry about me competing with real professionals.
Q: I have this really nice item I inherited and I can not afford to have a professional work on it. Would you please look at it and see if you can fix it.
A: No. I will not touch "really nice items" or items of great sentimental importance. I will not take the risk of damaging your item. Save up your money and have a real professional fix it. Trust me, that is the nicest thing I can do for you.
Q: Do you have a rush service?
A: No. I do this as a hobby, rushing is not conducive to my relaxation and that is what a hobby is all about.
If you need something done before a deadline contact me and I will let you know if I can do it or not.
Q: You say you specialize in bulk for antique dealers and flea market vendors, does that mean you will not work on my one item?
A: Absolutely not! I am happy to work on your single piece, with the services I offer I just tend to be more what the flea market vendor is looking for.
Q: You specialize in bulk, how many can I send in?
A: It always depends on what I have on the bench at any given time, suffice to say you need to let me know whenever you send in ten or more pieces that it is a bulk order.
Q: What payment forms do you accept?
A: For small orders I accept cash, check or money orders. For larger orders I can accept Paypal or direct credit cards. Don't forget, I accept, prefer and encourage trades! Got five watches you found in the attic? Give me one and I will repair the other four for free (you pay shipping only).
Q: Why do you not accept Paypal for small orders?
A: I make no profit off of doing any of this, Paypal fees would kill me and add yet another level of complexity to what is supposed to be a fun learning experience for me. I can accept larger payment through my daytime job's Paypal and merchant accounts, but they charge for this service so I have to make enough to cover the costs.
Q: Why would an antique dealer or flea market vendor use a non-professional like you?
A: They can charge a substantial amount more for items that are in working condition and look good however they will most likely never be able to charge enough to cover the cost of a real professional restoration. I can return most items to working condition for far less, increasing their profitability.
Q: If I find twenty watches at an estate sale can you get them all working?
A: For enough money, yes. My flat fees are for a COA (clean, oil, adjust) and do not include replacing parts that may be missing or damaged beyond repair. Watches missing crowns, bezels, hands, backs, etc will cost substantially more to repair than ones that need just a COA. If I find a watch that is missing parts I will tell you before I start work on it, or as soon as I see the part is missing, at that point you have the option to have me return it as is for no charge (other than postage).
Q: Do your fees include shipping?
A: No, shipping is too volatile to include in my charges. They will be billed at roughly cost. I say roughly because I usually round up to the nearest dollar to help cover costs of tape, bubble wrap, etc. I do not charge a "handling fee". Normally in the continental US I charge $5 for small orders and ship USPS priority mail (as of 01/01/10, price subject to change if the Postal Service raises their rates).
Q: What kind of watches do you accept in trade?
A: Mechanical only, no quartzes. They must be complete (no missing parts) and must not look like they were run over by a car. Other than that, I am open. My ultimate trade would be for mechanical chronograph watches.
Q: What kind of pens do you accept in trade?
A: Fountain pens, some higher end ballpoints and rollerballs. Vintage or modern. Must be complete (no missing parts) and not look like they were run over by a car. Other than that, I am open.
Q: What else do you accept in trade?
A: I don't know, I like knives (not bone/stag/etc types, I have some Gerbers and Kershaws, I really like Damascus steel!), lighters (vintage or Duponts), photo stuff like Nikon/Leica/Contax in SLR and rangefinders, amateur radio gear (2m, 440), blu-ray movies I don't have, etc. Have something interesting? Let me know!
Q: Why would I send in a quartz watch to have the battery replaced?
A: If it is a cheap $20 Wal-Mart special you wouldn't. More expensive watches however you might want someone who knows what ESD is and the damage it can cause to your watch just by using non-ESD safe tools or touching something they should not. I have been working with computers since about 1980 where ESD is a serious risk and am fully equipped with ESD safe tools.
Q: What kind of pen and watch repair training have you had?
A: Since I do this as a hobby and have a full time job I can not attend a school for this (besides, there is not one within 100 miles). For watches, I have taken the TimeZone level 1 and level 2 courses offered by TimeZone.com, been through Bob Tascione's Watch Repair DVD course, been through most of the books for the Master Watchmaker's Course by the Chicago School of Watchmaking, been through some of the Esembl-O-Graf Chronograph Watch Course manuals from the Western Pennsylvania Horological Institute, as well as keeping an eye on several watch repair forums and reading several books. For pens, I have of course read "Da Book" by Frank Dubiel, been through Dennis Lively's DVD training videos and participate in several forums. I have been working on pens since 2005 and watches since early 2008.
Q: Do you take photography jobs?
A: Yes, please visit my photography website for more information.
Copyright 2012 Allan Hall, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED